A recreÂation of the milÂiÂtary sanÂdals. (PhoÂto: BavarÂiÂan State Office for MonÂuÂment PreserÂvaÂtion)
Whether you’re putting togethÂer a stage play, a film, or a teleÂviÂsion series, if the stoÂry is set in ancient Rome, you know you’re going to have to get a lot of sanÂdals on order. This task may sound more straightÂforÂward than it is, for simÂply copyÂing the styles of clasÂsic proÂducÂtions that take place in the Roman Empire will put you on the wrong side of the hisÂtorÂiÂcal research. We now know, for instance, that some ancient Romans wore their sanÂdals with socks, a look that, seen in today’s culÂturÂal conÂtext, may not give quite the desired impresÂsion. And thanks to an even more recent disÂcovÂery, it seems we also need to think about what’s on their soles.
DisÂcovÂered near the BavarÂiÂan city of OberÂstimm, “an ancient Roman sanÂdal, largeÂly decayed but reconÂstructÂed through X‑ray, sugÂgests the spread of milÂiÂtary fashÂion to local popÂuÂlaÂtions.” So writes Madeleine MuzÂdakis at My ModÂern Met, explainÂing that its type were known as caliÂgae, which “had tough soles with hobÂnails [that] proÂvidÂed tracÂtion for the troops,” who did a fair bit of marchÂing.
This parÂticÂuÂlar caliÂga dates from between 60 and 130, around the time the Roman army switched from sanÂdals to boots, and it shows that, durÂing their time in this part of Bavaria, their footwear had an influÂence on what the civilÂians were wearÂing.
An x‑ray of the ancient sanÂdals. (PhoÂto: BavarÂiÂan State Office for MonÂuÂment PreserÂvaÂtion
The idea that stanÂdard-issue milÂiÂtary gear could influÂence popÂuÂlar fashÂion may surÂprise anyÂone who’s ever had to wear a pair of “GI glassÂes.” But in its heyÂday, the Roman army wasÂn’t just a group of occuÂpiers installed to project force on the part of a disÂtant metroÂpole, but an extenÂsion of civÂiÂlizaÂtion itself. If the hobÂnails in Roman milÂiÂtary sanÂdals affordÂed extra tracÂtion in addiÂtion to the subÂtle sugÂgesÂtion of culÂturÂal sophisÂtiÂcaÂtion, so much the betÂter. Though the quesÂtion of just how far and wide this parÂticÂuÂlar type of footwear (which appears reconÂstructÂed at the top of the post, and in X‑ray just above) spread through the Roman Empire remains a matÂter for furÂther research, now would be as good a time as any for cosÂtume designÂers to stock up on nails.
via Live SciÂence/My ModÂern Met
RelatÂed conÂtent:
EleÂgant 2,000-Year-Old Roman Shoe Found in a Well
ArchaeÂolÂoÂgists DisÂcovÂer a 2,000-Year-Old Roman Glass Bowl in PerÂfect ConÂdiÂtion
Based in Seoul, ColÂin Marshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities, lanÂguage, and culÂture. His projects include the SubÂstack newsletÂter Books on Cities and the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles. FolÂlow him on TwitÂter at @colinmarshall or on FaceÂbook.
Not only tracÂtion, but mileage. I’m not sure that those nails actuÂalÂly proÂvidÂed much more tracÂtion than just leather. But,leather wears out much faster than metÂal. Those studs were probÂaÂbly there more to extend the useÂful life of the footwear.
I would love to have a pair of shoe just like those. I have been readÂing about hisÂtoÂry and it’s realÂly interÂestÂing. I wonÂder what it would have been like livÂing back then. Thank you for this artiÂcle
I made a pair for myself sevÂerÂal years ago to go with a lorÂiÂca that I had built. They take a LONG time to break in, and even then they aren’t terÂriÂbly comÂfortÂable. Best worn with socks.