AmerÂiÂcans today can acquire every eleÂment of their ThanksÂgivÂing dinÂner pracÂtiÂcalÂly ready to eat, in need of litÂtle more than some heat before being set on the table. This very ThursÂday, in fact, many AmerÂiÂcans will no doubt do just that. But it wasÂn’t an option two cenÂturies ago, espeÂcialÂly for those who lived on the wild fronÂtier. To see how they’d have put their ThanksÂgivÂing dinÂner togethÂer, you’ll want to conÂsult one Youtube chanÂnel in parÂticÂuÂlar: EarÂly AmerÂiÂcan, preÂviÂousÂly feaÂtured here on Open CulÂture for its videos re-creÂatÂing varÂiÂous meals as they would have been preÂpared cirÂca 1820.
The creÂators of EarÂly AmerÂiÂcan, JusÂtine Dorn and Ron RayÂfield, also hapÂpen to be a marÂried couÂple in real life. In their videos they appear to play hisÂtorÂiÂcal verÂsions of themÂselves, adherÂing to the domesÂtic diviÂsion of labor cusÂtom would have dicÂtatÂed in rurÂal AmerÂiÂca of the earÂly nineÂteenth cenÂtuÂry.
When Ron steps in the door with the fruits of a bounÂtiÂful hunt, two rabÂbits and a duck, JusÂtine knows just how to put them at the cenÂter of a full-fledged ThanksÂgivÂing dinÂner. This involves not just cookÂing the meat, but preparÂing a variÂety of accomÂpaÂniÂments like cranÂberÂries, corn, mushÂroom gravy, and sweet potaÂto pie.
All this hapÂpens at the hearth, which demands a set of skills (and a set of tools, includÂing an hourÂglass) not norÂmalÂly posÂsessed by home-cookÂing enthuÂsiÂasts of the twenÂty-twenÂties. But the meal that results will sureÂly look appeÂtizÂing even to modÂern viewÂers. Though AbraÂham LinÂcoln made ThanksÂgivÂing a nationÂal holÂiÂday in 1863, George WashÂingÂton first issued a proclaÂmaÂtion for “a day of pubÂlic thanksÂgivÂing and prayer” in 1789. And by that time, many of ThanksÂgivÂing’s dishÂes had already become estabÂlished traÂdiÂtion. (Turkey and cranÂberÂry were linked togethÂer in the first AmerÂiÂcan cookÂbook in 1796, NPR notes.) As always, JusÂtine proÂvides the origÂiÂnal recipes (scant in detail though they often are) at the end. Use them well, it seems, and you can have a grand ThanksÂgivÂing feast even if you don’t bring home a turkey.
RelatÂed conÂtent:
The First AmerÂiÂcan CookÂbook: SamÂple Recipes from AmerÂiÂcan CookÂery (1796)
Read 800+ ThanksÂgivÂing Books Free at the InterÂnet Archive
MarÂiÂlyn Monroe’s HandÂwritÂten Turkey-and-StuffÂing Recipe
F. Scott Fitzgerald’s 13 Tips for What to Do with Your LeftÂover ThanksÂgivÂing Turkey
Based in Seoul, ColÂin MarÂshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities, lanÂguage, and culÂture. His projects include the SubÂstack newsletÂter Books on Cities, the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles and the video series The City in CinÂeÂma. FolÂlow him on TwitÂter at @colinmarshall or on FaceÂbook.
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