Despite havÂing recentÂly begun to admit tour groups, Japan remains inacÂcesÂsiÂble to most of the world’s travÂelÂers. HavÂing closed its gates durÂing the onset of the COVID-19 panÂdemÂic, the counÂtry has shown litÂtle incliÂnaÂtion to open them up again too quickÂly or wideÂly. The longer this remains the case, of course, the more intense everyÂone’s desire to visÂit Japan becomes. Though difÂferÂent travÂelÂers have difÂferÂent interÂests to purÂsue in the Land of the RisÂing sun — temÂples and shrines, trains and cafĂ©s, aniÂme and manÂga — all of them are sureÂly unitÂed by one appreÂciÂaÂtion in parÂticÂuÂlar: that of JapanÂese food.
WherÂevÂer in the world we hapÂpen to live, most of us have a decent JapanÂese restauÂrant or two in our vicinÂiÂty. Alas, as anyÂone with expeÂriÂence in Japan has felt, the expeÂriÂence of eatÂing its cuiÂsine anyÂwhere else doesÂn’t quite meaÂsure up; a ramen meal can taste good in a CalÂiÂforÂnia strip mall, not the same as it would taste in a Tokyo subÂway staÂtion.
At least the twenÂty-first cenÂtuÂry affords us one conÂveÂnient means of enjoyÂing audioÂviÂsuÂal evoÂcaÂtions of genÂuine JapanÂese eaterÂies: Youtube videos. The chanÂnel JapanÂese NooÂdles Udon Soba Kyoto HyĹŤÂgo, for instance, has capÂtiÂvatÂed large audiÂences simÂply by showÂing what goes on in the humÂble kitchens of westÂern Japan’s Kyoto and HyĹŤÂgo preÂfecÂtures.
HyĹŤÂgo conÂtains the coastal city of Kobe as well as HimeÂji CasÂtle, which dates back to the fourÂteenth cenÂtuÂry. The preÂfecÂture of Kyoto, and espeÂcialÂly the oneÂtime capÂiÂtal of Japan withÂin it, needs no introÂducÂtion, such is its worldÂwide renown as a site of culÂturÂal and hisÂtorÂiÂcal richÂness. Right up until the panÂdemÂic, many were the forÂeignÂers who jourÂneyed to Kyoto in search of the “real Japan.” Whether such a thing truÂly exists remains an open quesÂtion, but if it does, I would locate it — in Kyoto, HyĹŤÂgo, or any othÂer region of the counÂtry — in the modÂest restauÂrants of its back alleys and shotenÂgai marÂket comÂplexÂes, the ones that have been servÂing up bowls of nooÂdles and plates of curÂry for decade upon decade.
IdeÂalÂly the dĂ©cor nevÂer changes at these estabÂlishÂments, nor do the proÂpriÂetors. The video at the top of the post visÂits a “good old dinÂer” in Kobe to show the skills of a “hard workÂing old lady” with the staÂtus of a “vetÂerÂan cook choÂsen by God.” In anothÂer such neighÂborÂhood restauÂrant, locatÂed near the main train staÂtion in the city of AmaÂgasaÂki, a “super mom” preÂpares her sigÂnaÂture udon nooÂdles. But even she looks like a newÂcomÂer comÂpared to the lady who’s been makÂing udon over in Kyoto for 58 years at a dinÂer in exisÂtence for a cenÂtuÂry. Soba, tonkatÂsu, oyakodon, temÂpuÂra, okonomiyaÂki: whichevÂer JapanÂese dish you’ve been cravÂing for the past couÂple of years, you can watch a video on its prepaÂraÂtion — and make your long-term travÂel plans accordÂingÂly.
RelatÂed conÂtent:
How to Make Sushi: Free Video Lessons from a MasÂter Sushi Chef
CookÂpad, the Largest Recipe Site in Japan, LaunchÂes New Site in EngÂlish
How Soy Sauce Has Been Made in Japan for Over 220 Years: An Inside View
Based in Seoul, ColÂin MarÂshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities, lanÂguage, and culÂture. His projects include the SubÂstack newsletÂter Books on Cities, the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles and the video series The City in CinÂeÂma. FolÂlow him on TwitÂter at @colinmarshall, on FaceÂbook, or on InstaÂgram.
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