AccordÂing to the curÂrent research, cafÂfeine, “conÂtributes much more to your health than it takes away.” These words come from a thinker no less vigÂiÂlant about the state of food-and-drink sciÂence than Michael PolÂlan, and perÂhaps they’re all you feel you need to know on the subÂject. In fact, you’re probÂaÂbly takÂing in some form of cafÂfeine even while readÂing this now. I know I’m doing so while writÂing it, and this, accordÂing to the PolÂlan-starÂring Wired video above, gives us someÂthing in comÂmon with the cenÂtral figÂures of the EnlightÂenÂment. “Isaac NewÂton was a big cofÂfee fan,” says PolÂlan, and Voltaire “apparÂentÂly had 72 cups a day. I don’t know quite how you do that.”
The EnlightÂenÂment, the Age of ReaÂson, and the IndusÂtriÂal RevÂoÂluÂtion also owe much to the intelÂlecÂtuÂal and comÂmerÂcial churn of the cofÂfee house, an instiÂtuÂtion that emerged in 17th-cenÂtuÂry LonÂdon. “There were cofÂfee housÂes dedÂiÂcatÂed to litÂerÂaÂture, and writÂers and poets would conÂgreÂgate there,” says PolÂlan.
“There was a cofÂfee house dedÂiÂcatÂed to sellÂing stock, and that turned into the LonÂdon Stock Exchange evenÂtuÂalÂly. There was anothÂer one dedÂiÂcatÂed to sciÂence, tied to the RoyÂal InstiÂtuÂtion, where great sciÂenÂtists of the periÂod would get togethÂer.” ConÂsumed in dedÂiÂcatÂed housÂes or elseÂwhere, the “new, sober, more civÂil drink was changÂing the way peoÂple thought and the way they worked.”
The relÂeÂvant conÂtrast is with alcoÂhol, once an eleÂment of pracÂtiÂcalÂly all bevÂerÂages in Europe. Before cafÂfeine got there, “peoÂple were drunk or buzzed most of the day. PeoÂple would have alcoÂhol with breakÂfast” — chilÂdren includÂed, since it was still healthÂiÂer than conÂtÂaÂmÂiÂnatÂed water. This cusÂtom hardÂly encourÂaged clear, linÂear thought; Diderot, PolÂlan tells us, wrote the EncyÂclopĂ©die while drinkÂing cofÂfee, but imagÂine the result, if any, had he been drinkÂing wine. More than a quarÂter-milÂlenÂniÂum latÂer, we have solÂid eviÂdence that cafÂfeine “does improve focus and memÂoÂry, and the abilÂiÂty to learn,” if at the cost of a decent night’s sleep. Not that this seems to have bothÂered cofÂfee-poundÂing EnlightÂenÂment thinkers: what’s a litÂtle tossÂing and turnÂing, after all, when there’s a worldÂview to be revÂoÂluÂtionÂized?
PolÂlan elabÂoÂrates on the role cofÂfee plays in our lives in his new book, This Is Your Mind on Plants. And sepÂaÂrateÂly see his short audio book, CafÂfeine: How CafÂfeine CreÂatÂed the ModÂern World.
RelatÂed ConÂtent:
The CuriÂous StoÂry of London’s First CofÂfeeÂhousÂes (1650–1675)
PhilosoÂphers DrinkÂing CofÂfee: The ExcesÂsive Habits of Kant, Voltaire & Kierkegaard
Based in Seoul, ColÂin MarÂshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities, lanÂguage, and culÂture. His projects include the SubÂstack newsletÂter Books on Cities, the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles and the video series The City in CinÂeÂma. FolÂlow him on TwitÂter at @colinmarshall or on FaceÂbook.
TotalÂly agree with Michael PolÂlan: the panÂdemÂic has focused our workÂplace activÂiÂties and proÂducÂtivÂiÂty hubs around virÂtuÂal, safe sources and the regÂuÂlar proÂviÂsion of cofÂfee!
I foreÂsee revÂenue-starved pubs and retail spaces proÂvidÂing short-term hybrid meetÂing venues: qualÂiÂty cafÂfeine, suoÂer-fast broadÂband, lapÂtop and mobile rechargÂing powÂer supÂplies, plus a peaceÂful workÂing enviÂronÂment… gone (hopeÂfulÂly) are the days of long, mind-numbÂing, repetÂiÂtive comÂmutÂing to urban cenÂtres. WelÂcome back the local cofÂfee house, proÂvidÂing a short walk or bike ride from home, locals who are friends not work colÂleagues.
What’sÂnot to like?