As Chris Hedges disÂcovÂered as a batÂtle-hardÂened reporter, war is a force that gives us meanÂing. Whether we subÂliÂmate vioÂlence in enterÂtainÂment, have paid proÂfesÂsionÂals and state agents do it for us, or carÂry it out ourÂselves, human beings canÂnot seem to give up their most ancient vice; “we demoÂnize the eneÂmy,” Hedges wrote, “so that our oppoÂnent is no longer human,” and “we view ourÂselves, our peoÂple, as the embodÂiÂment of absolute goodÂness…. Each side reduces the othÂer to objects — evenÂtuÂalÂly in the form of corpses.” Each new genÂerÂaÂtion inherÂits old hatreds, and so forth.…
Maybe one way to break cycles of vioÂlence is with conÂtrolled vioÂlence — using bare fists to setÂtle scores, and walkÂing away with only bruisÂes, a litÂtle hurt pride, but no lastÂing wounds? That’s the idea behind Takanakuy, an Andean fesÂtiÂval that takes place each year at ChristÂmas in the province of ChumbivilÂcas, in the mounÂtains of Peru. The region has a police force made up of around three offiÂcers, the nearÂest courÂtÂhouse is “a stomÂach-wreckÂing 10-hour driÂve through the mounÂtains,” notes Vice, who bring us the video above. PotenÂtialÂly exploÂsive disÂputes natÂuÂralÂly arise, and must be setÂtled outÂside the law.
Rather than rely on state interÂvenÂtion, resÂiÂdents wait to slug it out on Takanakuy. The name of the fesÂtiÂval come from Quechua — the region’s indigeÂnous lanÂguage — and means “to hit each othÂer” or, more idiomatÂiÂcalÂly, “when the blood is boilÂing.” But comÂbatÂants have had upwards of twelve months to cool before they step into a ring of cheerÂing specÂtaÂtors and go hand-to-hand with an oppoÂnent. Fights are also offiÂciÂatÂed by refÂerÂees, who do crowd conÂtrol with short rope whips and call a fight as soon as someÂone goes down. Takanakuy is ritÂuÂalÂized comÂbat, not bloodÂsport. Although traÂdiÂtionÂalÂly domÂiÂnatÂed by men, women, and chilÂdren also parÂticÂiÂpate in fights, which usuÂalÂly only last a couÂple minÂutes or so.
“Some traÂdiÂtionÂalÂists disÂapÂprove of female parÂticÂiÂpaÂtion in Takanakuy,” writes phoÂtoÂjourÂnalÂist Mike Kai Chen at The New York Times, but “an increasÂing numÂber of women in ChumbivilÂcas are defyÂing conÂvenÂtion and stepÂping up to fight in front of their comÂmuÂniÂty.” Male fightÂers wear boots, flashy leather chaps, and elabÂoÂrate, hand-sewn masks with taxiÂderÂmied birds on top. Women wear eleÂgant dressÂes with fine embroiÂdery, and wrap their wrists in colÂorÂful embroiÂdered cloth. “The ultiÂmate aim is to begin the new year in peace. For this reaÂson every fight… begins and ends with a hug”… or, at the very least, a handÂshake.
The fesÂtiÂval also involves much dancÂing, eatÂing, drinkÂing, craft sales, and ChristÂmas celÂeÂbraÂtions. SuemedÂha Sood at BBC TravÂel comÂpares Takanakuy to SeinÂfeld’s “FesÂtivus,” the alt-winÂter holÂiÂday for the airÂing of grievÂances and feats of strength. But it’s no joke. “The fesÂtiÂval seeks to resolve conÂflict, strengthÂen comÂmuÂniÂty bonds and hopeÂfulÂly, arrive at a greater peace.” LibÂerÂtarÂiÂan econÂoÂmists Edwar Escalante and RayÂmond March frame Takanakuy as “a credÂiÂble mechÂaÂnism of law enforceÂment in an orderÂly fashÂion with social accepÂtance.” For indigeÂnous teacher and author and parÂticÂiÂpant VicÂtor Laime ManÂtilÂla, it’s someÂthing more, part of “the fight to reclaim the rights of indigeÂnous peoÂple.”
“In the cities,” says ManÂtilÂla, “the ChumbivilÂcas are still seen as a savÂage culÂture.” But they have kept the peace amongst themÂselves with no need for PeruÂvian authorÂiÂties, fusÂing an indigeÂnous music called Huaylia with othÂer traÂdiÂtions that date back even before the Incas. Takanakuy arose as a response to sysÂtems of coloÂnial oppresÂsion. When “jusÂtice in ChumbivilÂcas was soleÂly adminÂisÂtered by powÂerÂful peoÂple,” ManÂtilÂla says, “peoÂple from the comÂmuÂniÂty always lost their case. What can I do with a jusÂtice like that? I’d rather have my own jusÂtice in pubÂlic.”
See the cosÂtumes of the traÂdiÂtionÂal Takanakuy charÂacÂters over at Vice and see Chen’s stunÂning phoÂtos of friendÂly fistÂfights and Takanakuy fun at The New York Times.
RelatÂed ConÂtent:
PeruÂvian Singer & RapÂper, RenaÂta FloÂres, Helps PreÂserve Quechua with Viral Hits on YouTube
SpeakÂing in WhisÂtles: The WhisÂtled LanÂguage of OaxÂaÂca, MexÂiÂco
Josh Jones is a writer and musiÂcian based in Durham, NC. FolÂlow him at @jdmagness
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