Walk like an Egyptian, but eat like an ancient Babylonian.
While cookbooks containing Mesopotamian fare do exist, to be really authentic, take your recipes from a clay tablet, densely inscribed in cuneiform.
Sadly, there are only four of them, and they reside in a display case at Yale. (Understandable given that they’re over 4000 years old.)
When Agnete Lassen, associate curator of Yale’s Babylonian Collection, and colleague Chelsea Alene Graham, a digital imaging specialist, were invited to participate in a culinary event hosted by New York University’s Institute for the Study of the Ancient World, they wisely chose to travel with a 3D-printed facsimile of one of the precious tablets.
T’would have been a shame to knock the original off the counter while reaching for a bunch of leeks.
While other presenters prepared such delicacies as Fish Sauces at the Roman Table, Buddhist vegetarian dishes from the Song Dynasty, and a post-modern squid-ink spin on Medieval Blancmange, the Yale team joined chef Nawal Nasrallah and a crew from Harvard to recreate three one-pot dishes detailed on one of the ancient artifacts.
Judging by the above video, the clear winner was Tuh’i, a beet and lamb stew which Lassen describes as a “proto-borscht.”
The vegetarian Unwinding Stew’s name proved unnecessarily vexing, while the milk-based Broth of Lamb was unappetizing to the eye (as well as the palate, according to Graham). Perhaps they should have substituted animal blood—another favorite Babylonian thickener.
As one of Lassen’s predecessors, Professor William W. Hallo, told The New York Times in 1988, it’s unlikely the average Mesopotamian would have had the opportunity to tuck into any of these dishes. The vast quantities of speciality ingredients and the elaborate instructions suggest a festive meal for the elite.
In addition to the dishes served at NYU’s Appetite for the Past conference, the tablets include recipes for stag, gazelle, kid, mutton, squab, and a bird that’s referred to as “tarru.”
Next time, perhaps.
And not to quibble with the Bulldogs, but the BBC reports that researchers from the University of Wales Institute are claiming a pudding made from nettles, ground barley, and water is actually the world’s oldest recipe, clocking in at 6000 BC. (Serve it with roast hedgehog and fish gut sauce…)
While the Yale team has yet to share its recipes in a language other than cuneiform, The Silk Road Gourmet has a good guide to various Mesopotamian spices and staples.
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Ayun Halliday is an author, illustrator, theater maker and Chief Primatologist of the East Village Inky zine. Join her in NYC on Thursday June 28 for another monthly installment of her book-based variety show, Necromancers of the Public Domain. Follow her @AyunHalliday.
Are these recipes available somewhere to print. I would like to cook them with my students. Thanks, Libby
Libby, I looked high and low and couldn’t find em. But perhaps if you email Agnete Lassen, whose Yale profile is hyperlinked above, she may prove willing to help a fellow educator out!
I will love to take cute of cooking classes in New York or in Yale of Old or antique world recipies. Once I read about Recipies from Movies and I haven’t been able to find . I will be very happy if you let me know
Sonya Garza Rapport
The name of the first recipe, if you think of unwinding as meaning ‘disentangle’, makes me think of “untying knots” or “undoing knots”, as in
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_Untier_of_Knots
Could it be that the soup was meant to ‘magically’ help people solve problems in their lives, instead of ‘relaxing muscles’?
I think the lamb broth recipe calls for plain yogurt instead of milk, since the ancient word for yogurts “laban” is used inter-changably in the Near East till today, lamb broth yogurt is still a fairly popular dish in Iraq and Syria.