Few of us grow up drinkÂing cofÂfee, but once we start drinkÂing it, even fewÂer of us ever stop. AccordÂing to legÂend, the earÂliÂest such case was a ninth-cenÂtuÂry EthiopiÂan goatherd named KalÂdi, who noticed how much enerÂgy his rumiÂnant charges seemed to draw from eatÂing parÂticÂuÂlar red berries. After chewÂing a few of them himÂself, he expeÂriÂenced the first cafÂfeine buzz in human hisÂtoÂry. Despite almost cerÂtainÂly nevÂer havÂing existÂed, KalÂdi now lends his name to a variÂety of cofÂfee shops around the world, everyÂwhere from Addis AbaÂba to Seoul, where I live.
His stoÂry also opens the aniÂmatÂed TED-Ed video above, “How HumanÂiÂty Got Hooked on CofÂfee.” We do know, explains its narÂraÂtor, that “at some point before the fourÂteen-hunÂdreds, in what’s now Ethiopia, peoÂple began forÂagÂing for wild cofÂfee in the forÂest underÂgrowth.” EarÂly on, peoÂple conÂsumed cofÂfee plants by drinkÂing tea made with their leaves, eatÂing their berries with butÂter and salt, and — in what proved to be the most endurÂing method — “dryÂing, roastÂing, and simÂmerÂing its cherÂries into an enerÂgizÂing elixir.” Over the years, demand for this elixir spread throughÂout the Ottoman Empire, and in the fullÂness of time made its way outÂward to both Asia and Europe.
In no EuroÂpean city did cofÂfee catch on as aggresÂsiveÂly as it did in LonÂdon, whose cofÂfee housÂes proÂlifÂerÂatÂed in the mid-sevÂenÂteenth-cenÂtuÂry and became “social and intelÂlecÂtuÂal hotbeds.” LatÂer, “Paris’ cofÂfee housÂes hostÂed EnlightÂenÂment figÂures like Diderot and Voltaire, who allegedÂly drank 50 cups of cofÂfee a day.” (In fairÂness, it was a lot weakÂer back then.) ProÂducÂing and transÂportÂing the ever-increasÂing amounts of cofÂfee imbibed in these and othÂer cenÂters of human civÂiÂlizaÂtion required world-spanÂning impeÂrÂiÂal operÂaÂtions, which were comÂmandÂed with just the degree of cauÂtion and senÂsiÂtivÂiÂty one might imagÂine.
The world’s first comÂmerÂcial espresÂso machine was showÂcased in Milan in 1906, a sigÂnal moment in the indusÂtriÂalÂizaÂtion and mechÂaÂnizaÂtion of the cofÂfee expeÂriÂence. By the mid-nineÂteen-fifties, “about 60 perÂcent of U.S. facÂtoÂries incorÂpoÂratÂed cofÂfee breaks.” More recent trends have emphaÂsized “speÂcialÂty cofÂfees with an emphaÂsis on qualÂiÂty beans and brewÂing methÂods,” as well as cerÂtiÂfiÂcaÂtion for cofÂfee proÂducÂtion using “minÂiÂmum wage and susÂtainÂable farmÂing.” WhatÂevÂer our conÂsidÂerÂaÂtions when buyÂing cofÂfee, many of us have made it an irreÂplaceÂable eleÂment of our ritÂuÂals both perÂsonÂal and proÂfesÂsionÂal. Not to say what we’re addictÂed: this is the 3,170th Open CulÂture post I’ve writÂten, but only the 3,150th or so that I’ve writÂten while drinkÂing cofÂfee.
RelatÂed conÂtent:
The HisÂtoÂry of CofÂfee and How It TransÂformed Our World
The Birth of EspresÂso: The StoÂry Behind the CofÂfee Shots That Fuel ModÂern Life
The CuriÂous StoÂry of London’s First CofÂfeeÂhousÂes (1650–1675)
Based in Seoul, ColÂin Marshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities, lanÂguage, and culÂture. His projects include the SubÂstack newsletÂter Books on Cities, the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles and the video series The City in CinÂeÂma. FolÂlow him on TwitÂter at @colinmarshall or on FaceÂbook.