Why has food become such an object of interÂest in recent years? One posÂsiÂble explaÂnaÂtion is that it repÂreÂsents one of the last purÂsuits still essenÂtialÂly untouchÂable by digÂiÂtal culÂture: for all you can write about and phoÂtoÂgraph food for the interÂnet, you can’t actuÂalÂly expeÂriÂence it there. Food, in othÂer words, means physÂiÂcalÂiÂty, dexÂterÂiÂty, senÂsiÂbilÂiÂty, and hand-craftsÂmanÂship in a conÂcrete, visÂcerÂal way that, in the 21st, cenÂtuÂry, has come to seem increasÂingÂly scarce. But anothÂer, shortÂer explaÂnaÂtion sums the pheÂnomÂeÂnon up, just as plauÂsiÂbly, in two words: AnthoÂny BourÂdain.
Ever since he first entered the pubÂlic eye at the end of the 1990s, late chef-writer-travÂelÂer-teleÂviÂsion host taught a readÂing, and latÂer viewÂing pubÂlic to appreÂciÂate not just food but all that goes into food: the ingreÂdiÂents, sure, the intense trainÂing and labor, of course, but most of all the many and varÂied culÂturÂal facÂtors that conÂverge on a meal. BourÂdain found robust culÂtures everyÂwhere, those that develÂoped cart-filled streets of cities across the world to the kitchens of the most unasÂsumÂing-lookÂing restauÂrants and everyÂwhere in between. He deeply respectÂed not just those dedÂiÂcatÂed to the makÂing and servÂing of food, but those dedÂiÂcatÂed to crafts of all kinds.
BourÂdain’s natÂurÂal kinÂship with all craftsÂmen and craftswomen made him a natÂurÂal choice to carÂry Raw Craft, a web series sponÂsored by the BalÂveÂnie, a popÂuÂlar-preÂmiÂum brand of Scotch whisky. In its fourÂteen episodes (each of which finds a way to feaÂture a botÂtle of the BalÂveÂnie), BourÂdain goes charÂacÂterÂisÂtiÂcalÂly far and wide to visÂit the stuÂdios and workÂshops of real peoÂple makÂing real suits, shoes, saxÂoÂphones, drums, guiÂtars, handÂprintÂed books, furÂniÂture, motorÂcyÂcles, and “traÂdiÂtionÂalÂly femÂiÂnine objects.” That last may break someÂwhat from BourÂdain’s swagÂgerÂing, masÂcuÂline-if-not-macho image, but as the series’ host he disÂplays a good deal of enthuÂsiÂasm for the subÂject of each episode, includÂing the trip to the sponÂsor’s own disÂtillery in Dufftown, ScotÂland.
NatÂuÂralÂly, BourÂdain can engage on a whole othÂer levÂel in the episodes about food and food-relatÂed objects, such as pasÂtries and hot chocoÂlate, kitchen knives, and, in the video at the top of the post, cast-iron skilÂlets. Ever the parÂticÂiÂpaÂtoÂry observÂer, he finÂishÂes that last by preparÂing steak au poivre with one of the workÂshop’s own skilÂlets on the flame of its own skilÂlet-forgÂing furÂnace. He takes it a step furÂther, or sevÂerÂal, in the episode with JapanÂese tatÂtoo artist Takashi where, despite “runÂning out of room” on his own much-tatÂtooed skin, he comÂmisÂsions one more: a magÂnifÂiÂcent blue chrysanÂtheÂmum on his shoulÂder, drawn and inked with only the most time-honÂored tools and techÂniques.
We even, durÂing one of BourÂdain’s ink-receivÂing sesÂsions with Takashi, glimpse a true craftsÂman-to-craftsÂman conÂverÂsaÂtionÂal exchange. BourÂdain asks Takashi about someÂthing he’s seen all of the many times he’s been on the tatÂtooÂing table: a junior artist will approach to watch and learn from the way a senior one works. Takashi, who had to go through a minor ordeal just to conÂvince his own masÂter to take him on as an apprenÂtice, conÂfirms both the uniÂverÂsalÂiÂty and the imporÂtance of the pracÂtice: “If you stop learnÂing, you are pretÂty much done, you know?” BourÂdain, who could only have agreed with the senÂtiÂment, lived it to the very end. “I’d like it to last as long as I do,” he says of his Takashi tatÂtoo — “Which ain’t that long,” he adds, “but long enough, I hope.” But sureÂly no amount of time could ever satÂisÂfy a culiÂnary, culÂturÂal, and intelÂlecÂtuÂal appetite as prodiÂgious as his.
You can watch the comÂplete series of Raw Craft videos here.
RelatÂed ConÂtent:
20 MesÂmerÂizÂing Videos of JapanÂese ArtiÂsans CreÂatÂing TraÂdiÂtionÂal HandÂiÂcrafts
JapanÂese CraftsÂman Spends His Life TryÂing to RecreÂate a ThouÂsand-Year-Old Sword
David Rees Presents a Primer on the ArtiÂsanal Craft of PenÂcil SharpÂenÂing
Based in Seoul, ColÂin MarÂshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities and culÂture. His projects include the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles and the video series The City in CinÂeÂma. FolÂlow him on TwitÂter at @colinmarshall or on FaceÂbook.