Rick Steves Tells the Story of Fascism’s Rise & Fall in Germany

“Healthy, vig­or­ous, respectable: every­one’s favorite uncle.” How many of us hear these words and think of that most beloved of all Amer­i­can trav­el-tele­vi­sion per­son­al­i­ties, Rick Steves? Indeed, in the video above they’re spo­ken by Steves, though to describe a fig­ure very dif­fer­ent from him­self: Adolf Hitler, who con­vinced his peo­ple not to tour Europe but to invade it, spark­ing the dead­liest con­flict of all time. How and why this hap­pened has been a his­tor­i­cal ques­tion writ­ten about per­haps more volu­mi­nous­ly than any oth­er. But the Stevesian method of under­stand­ing demands first-hand expe­ri­ence of Ger­many, the land in which the Nazi par­ty came to pow­er.

Hence “Ger­many’s Fas­cist Sto­ry,” a 2020 episode of Rick Steves’ Europe whose itin­er­ary includes such des­ti­na­tions as Nurem­berg, site of the epony­mous Nazi ral­lies; Hitler’s moun­tain retreat in Bercht­es­gaden; the Gestapo and SS head­quar­ters in Berlin. We’re a long way indeed from Steves’ usu­al cir­cuit of cathe­drals, mar­kets, and bed-and-break­fasts.

Enriched with the his­tor­i­cal footage and the reflec­tions of Ger­man inter­vie­wees, this trav­el­ogue explains the rise in the 1930s and fall in the 1940s of a pow­er­ful Euro­pean strain of fas­cism. This man­i­fest­ed in pop­u­lar capit­u­la­tion to race-based, nation­al­is­tic, and ulti­mate­ly total­i­tar­i­an state pow­er, not just in Ger­many but oth­er coun­tries also once regard­ed as the cen­ter of Euro­pean civ­i­liza­tion.

We all know how World War II end­ed, and the blue-jeaned Steves sums up the rel­e­vant chap­ter of the sto­ry while stand­ing atop the under­ground bunker in which Hitler killed him­self. But such a defeat can nev­er tru­ly be con­sid­ered final, an idea that under­lies the con­tin­u­ing encour­age­ment of tourism to places like Berlin’s Memo­r­i­al to the Mur­dered Jews of Europe and the con­cen­tra­tion camp of Auschwitz-Birke­nau, which fig­ures briefly into this episode despite being locat­ed in Poland. As any ded­i­cat­ed “Rick­nick” knows, the pur­suit of any giv­en cul­tur­al or his­tor­i­cal inter­est inevitably leads the trav­el­er through a vari­ety of lands. Hence a project like The Sto­ry of Fas­cism, Steves’ hour­long doc­u­men­tary on that ide­ol­o­gy’s traces as found all through­out his favorite con­ti­nent. As he him­self has put it, trav­el is a polit­i­cal act — and it’s one nec­es­sary to under­stand­ing both the pol­i­tics you like and the pol­i­tics you don’t.

For those inter­est­ed in how Steves built his trav­el empire, we’d rec­om­mend lis­ten­ing to Guy Raz’s lengthy inter­view with Steves, one episode in his How I Built This pod­cast.

Relat­ed Con­tent:

The Sto­ry of Fas­cism: Rick Steves’ Doc­u­men­tary Helps Us Learn from the Hard Lessons of the 20th Cen­tu­ry

Rick Steves’ Europe: Binge Watch 9 Sea­sons of America’s Favorite Trav­el­er Free Online

20 Lessons from the 20th Cen­tu­ry About How to Defend Democ­ra­cy from Author­i­tar­i­an­ism, Accord­ing to Yale His­to­ri­an Tim­o­thy Sny­der

How Did Hitler Rise to Pow­er? : New TED-ED Ani­ma­tion Pro­vides a Case Study in How Fas­cists Get Demo­c­ra­t­i­cal­ly Elect­ed

Umber­to Eco Makes a List of the 14 Com­mon Fea­tures of Fas­cism

Based in Seoul, Col­in Mar­shall writes and broad­casts on cities, lan­guage, and cul­ture. His projects include the Sub­stack newslet­ter Books on Cities, the book The State­less City: a Walk through 21st-Cen­tu­ry Los Ange­les and the video series The City in Cin­e­ma. Fol­low him on Twit­ter at @colinmarshall or on Face­book.

Watch a Masterpiece Emerge from a Solid Block of Stone

As a younger per­son, I became enthralled with the art-his­tor­i­cal nov­els of Irv­ing Stone, espe­cial­ly The Agony and the Ecsta­sy, his fic­tion­al­ized biog­ra­phy of Michelan­ge­lo. Few books live up to their title so well — Stone’s Michelan­ge­lo is a tumult of pas­sion and pain, a Roman­tic hero tai­lor-made for those who believe artis­tic cre­ation tran­scends almost any oth­er act. Stone describes Michelangelo’s sculp­ture emerg­ing from the mar­ble ful­ly-formed in a cre­ation imbued with so much sex­u­al ener­gy, some pas­sages may need adult super­vi­sion:

It was like pen­e­trat­ing deep into white mar­ble with the pound­ing live thrust of his chis­el beat­ing upward through the warm liv­ing mar­ble with one ”Go!”, his whole body behind the heavy ham­mer, pen­e­trat­ing through ever deep­er and deep­er fur­rows of soft yield­ing liv­ing sub­stance until he had reached the explo­sive cli­max, and all of his flu­id strength, love, pas­sion, desire had been poured into the nascent form, and the mar­ble block, made to love the hand of the true sculp­tor, and respond­ed, giv­ing of its inner heat and sub­stance and flu­id form, until at last the sculp­tor and the mar­ble had total­ly coa­lesced, so deeply pen­e­trat­ing and infus­ing each oth­er that they had become one, mar­ble and man and organ­ic uni­ty, each ful­fill­ing the oth­er in the great­est act of art and love known to the human species. 

Whether or not you’re moved by Stone’s prose, you have to admit, it does make sculpt­ing sound enor­mous­ly appeal­ing. For a much less mas­cu­line take on what it’s like to carve a fig­ure from a sol­id block of stone, see the Nation­al Geo­graph­ic short film above, in which a three-dimen­sion­al por­trait comes alive in the hands of stone carv­er Anna Rubin­cam.

This is a labor of love, but it is also one of care­ful prepa­ra­tion. Rubin­cam “begins her process by mea­sur­ing and sketch­ing the fea­tures of a live mod­el,” the film’s YouTube page notes. “From there, she cre­ates a clay ver­sion before mov­ing on to care­ful­ly chis­el the piece out of stone.” The entire process took three weeks.

Is there room for agony and ecsta­sy amidst the mea­sure­ments? Indeed. “I always feel that you have to be a bit mad to become a stone carv­er,” says Rubin­cam, acknowl­edg­ing that “this isn’t the Renais­sance any­more. Stone isn’t a pri­ma­ry build­ing mate­r­i­al any­more. Why would any­one go into a pro­fes­sion” like this one? Rubincam’s answer — “there just wasn’t any oth­er option” — can­not help but bring to mind the most pop­u­lar quote from Stone’s nov­el: “One should not become an artist because he can, but because he must. It is only for those who would be mis­er­able with­out it.”

Relat­ed Con­tent: 

Brân­cuși Cap­tures His Sculp­ture & Life on Film: Watch Rare Footage Shot Between 1923–1939

Alexan­der Calder’s Archive Goes Online: Explore 1400 Works of Art by the Mod­ernist Sculp­tor

3D Print 18,000 Famous Sculp­tures, Stat­ues & Art­works: Rodin’s Thinker, Michelangelo’s David & More

Josh Jones is a writer and musi­cian based in Durham, NC. Fol­low him at @jdmagness

The Ukulele Orchestra of Great Britain’s Headbanging Cover of Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spirit”

Smells Like Teen Spir­it is an unusu­al anthem because it refus­es the role of the anthem. It’s per­fect for the gen­er­a­tion it rep­re­sent­ed because this was a cohort that was so ambiva­lent about any tra­di­tion­al val­ues [or] con­ven­tion­al suc­cess. — music crit­ic Ann Pow­ers 

The scream­ing exis­ten­tial angst of “Smells Like Teen Spir­it” ensured that Nir­vana would define, tran­scend, and out­last the 90s grunge scene.

The song was an instant hit. Here’s a descrip­tion from some­one who was present at the small Seat­tle club O.K Hotel for its first live per­for­mance:

They start­ed play­ing the new song and peo­ple erupt­ed. We were being slimed on by shirt­less guys, just mosh­ing. My friend Susan start­ed hyper­ven­ti­lat­ing, she thought it was so good: ‘I can’t, gasp, believe what they just played!’ It was just instan­ta­neous; it was crazy.

“Smells Like Teen Spir­it” was unre­con­sti­tut­ed rock bliss to us…

…and per­haps not the most nat­ur­al fit for a ukulele cov­er?

On the oth­er hand, what bet­ter instru­ment for those “ambiva­lent about con­ven­tion­al suc­cess” than the ukulele?

The Ukelele Orches­tra of Great Britain’s cov­er is as inten­tion­al­ly sil­ly as the band itself, but also man­ages to con­vey some of the original’s DGAF atti­tude.

That’s quite an accom­plish­ment for a seat­ed row of for­mal­ly dressed, mid­dle aged musi­cians, strum­ming in uni­son on an instru­ment any­one can play… but few can play well.

The ukulele has become cool in cer­tain cir­cles, but remains inex­tri­ca­bly linked to Tiny Tim tip­toe­ing through the tulips, and a mil­lion fum­bling sum­mer camp recre­ations of Jake Shimabukuro’s gen­tle Hawai­ian “Some­where Over the Rain­bow.”

Orches­tra founder Peter Brooke Turn­er’s trib­ute to lead vocal­ist Kurt Cobain helps nudge the nee­dle  past pure nov­el­ty into the realm of cred­i­bil­i­ty, or at least a sophis­ti­cat­ed under­stand­ing of all the ways in which the orig­i­nal works.

Plus, his “yeah” at 1:52 tran­scends the era of flan­nels, harken­ing to a time when the uncon­flict­ed preen­ing rock god reigned supreme. (We should note that he serves plen­ty of ham along­side that sausage.)

Best of all is David Suich’s enthu­si­as­tic head­bang­ing. Clear­ly a fel­low who enjoys putting his long hair in ser­vice of his art! (We refer you to the Ukulele Orchestra’s inter­pre­ta­tion of AC/DC’s “High­way to Hell.” below…)

Relat­ed Con­tent: 

The First Live Per­for­mance of Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spir­it” (1991)

Seri­ous­ly Awe­some Ukulele Cov­ers of “Sul­tans of Swing,” “Sweet Child O’ Mine,” “Thun­der­struck,” and “Smells Like Teen Spir­it”

How Nirvana’s Icon­ic “Smells Like Teen Spir­it” Came to Be: An Ani­mat­ed Video Nar­rat­ed by T‑Bone Bur­nett Tells the True Sto­ry

1,000 Musi­cians Play Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spir­it” Live, at the Same Time

Ayun Hal­l­i­day is an author, illus­tra­tor, the­ater mak­er and Chief Pri­ma­tol­o­gist of the East Vil­lage Inky zine.  Fol­low her @AyunHalliday.

Discover Ibn Sina (Avicenna), a Missing Pixel in Your Image of Philosophy: Partially Examined Life Episode #267 Featuring Peter Adamson

Most Amer­i­can stu­dents in phi­los­o­phy live on a diet of ancient Greek phi­los­o­phy on the one hand, and then “mod­ern” phi­los­o­phy, which starts around the time of Descartes (the 17th cen­tu­ry), with numer­ous schools and approach­es spilling into the present day. If you get any­thing from between those ancient days and moder­ni­ty, it’s prob­a­bly some church­men, i.e. Augus­tine (from the 4th cen­tu­ry) and Thomas Aquinas (the 13th cen­tu­ry), with per­haps a few Romans thrown in there and (if you’re Jew­ish) Mai­monides (12th cen­tu­ry).

But a key part of this lin­eage was the East­ward turn that the great works of Greek and Roman phi­los­o­phy took dur­ing the so-called Dark Ages, when they were pre­served and copied in the Islam­ic world, and this peri­od pro­duced a wealth of phi­los­o­phy includ­ing two fig­ures who became influ­en­tial enough in the West that their names were Latinized: Ibn Sīnā (980‑1037 C.E.) and Ibn Rushd, a.k.a. Aver­roes (1126–1198). Aquinas was very famil­iar with these fig­ures and incor­po­rat­ed them into his influ­en­tial works, and in the case of Ibn Sina, at least, impor­tant fig­ures like John Locke had def­i­nite­ly known at least about his views, if not his actu­al works.

On the Par­tial­ly Exam­ined Life Phi­los­o­phy Pod­cast, which has been going for 13 years now, we range wide­ly over the his­to­ry of phi­los­o­phy but had not actu­al­ly cracked the Islam­ic world. Luck­i­ly, Ibn Sīnā is one of the favorite philoso­phers of one of our favorite guests, Peter Adam­son of King’s Col­lege Lon­don. Peter runs his own pod­cast, The His­to­ry of Phi­los­o­phy (With­out Any Gaps), which as the name implies, cov­ers Medieval phi­los­o­phy with admirable thor­ough­ness, cov­er­ing not only Ibn Sīnā and Ibn Rushd, but also fig­ures like al-Rāzī, al-Fārābī, Al-Ghazālī, and many oth­ers.

Peter was good enough to rec­om­mend some read­ings to intro­duce us and our lis­ten­ers to this fig­ure, some of which he actu­al­ly wrote. Because of the vol­ume, redun­dan­cy, and style of Ibn Sīnā’s writ­ings, some sort of guide to col­lect and to some degree explain pas­sages is essen­tial for get­ting a han­dle on this idio­syn­crat­ic and bril­liant thinker. He wrote at least three dif­fer­ent ver­sions of his all-encom­pass­ing sys­tem, which was influ­enced by and meant to sup­plant Aris­totle’s. In addi­tion to philosophical/theological top­ics, it includ­ed math­e­mat­ics, sci­ence, psy­chol­o­gy, and more. So instead of try­ing to read a whole work cov­er­ing all that, it makes more sense to pick indi­vid­ual top­ics and then look at the var­i­ous for­mu­la­tions he gave about these.

Our two top­ics for this dis­cus­sion were a pecu­liar argu­ment for the exis­tence of God — with impor­tant impli­ca­tions for talk­ing about meta­physics more gen­er­al­ly — and an argu­ment for the imma­te­ri­al­i­ty of the soul, which like­wise tells us a lot about the way that Ibn Sīnā thought about knowl­edge and its rela­tion to the world.

The argu­ment for the exis­tence of God was lat­er called by Thomas Aquinas “the argu­ment from con­tin­gency.” It posits that things in the world don’t sim­ply exist, but that they require some­thing else to sup­port their exis­tence. This isn’t a cause is the chrono­log­i­cal sense that we talk about it: a pri­or event that gave rise to the thing. Rather, the mate­r­i­al com­po­nents of some­thing in a cer­tain arrange­ment make it con­tin­ue to exist as that thing right now; for exam­ple, a house exists because its com­po­nent wood parts exist, with nails and such hold­ing them in place. And the wood in turn has its char­ac­ter because of its physical/chemical com­po­nents, etc. If these com­po­nent caus­es weren’t in place, the thing would not exist; the thing is thus “con­tin­gent,” mean­ing it might well not have exist­ed were it not for those caus­es.

This pic­ture of the uni­verse thus includes a giant net­work of causal­i­ty, but does that net­work itself rest on any­thing? Accord­ing to Ibn Sīnā, there must be some­thing that is not con­tin­gent that holds every­thing else up. But is this thing God (in the sense that a good Mus­lim of his time would rec­og­nize it)? Ibn Sīnā then has a long series of argu­ments to show one by one that just by being “the nec­es­sary being,” this enti­ty also must be unique, must be all-pow­er­ful, gen­er­ous, and all the oth­er things one would expect God to be.

The argu­ment for the immor­tal­i­ty of the soul is per­haps Ibn Sīnā’s most famous argu­ment, often called the fly­ing or float­ing man argu­ment. It’s a thought exper­i­ment where­by you imag­ine you’ve just been cre­at­ed, but ful­ly mature, so you can think, but with no mem­o­ry, and your sens­es are inop­er­a­ble. You can’t even feel grav­i­ty or the ground under your feet (thus the “fly­ing” part). Accord­ing to Ibn Sīnā, you would still in such a sit­u­a­tion know that you exist. Since your appre­hen­sion of self did not include any part of your body (you could­n’t feel your body at all), that is sup­posed to prove that your body is not an essen­tial part of what you are.

Ibn Sīnā thought this argu­ment defin­i­tive because of his the­o­ry of knowl­edge by which if you know any­thing at all, then you know about the essen­tial com­po­nents of that thing. If you know what a tri­an­gle is, you know that it’s an abstract geo­met­ri­cal fig­ure with three straight sides. If you know what a horse is, you know that it’s a bio­log­i­cal ani­mal with a par­tic­u­lar char­ac­ter that you can iden­ti­fy. And to know what you are essen­tial­ly, you only need know that feel­ing of your own mind; any­thing else about that mind being asso­ci­at­ed with a par­tic­u­lar body that lives in a par­tic­u­lar part of the world and is just knowl­edge of con­tin­gent, rela­tion­al facts about your­self.

PEL hosts Mark Lin­sen­may­er and Dylan Casey grap­ple in detail with Peter about these argu­ments, both on this record­ing and on a sec­ond part of the dis­cus­sion for those that want to hear more. To read more about these argu­ments and get the cita­tions to the texts we read for this dis­cus­sion, see the essay for this episode at partiallyexaminedlife.com. The His­to­ry of Phi­los­o­phy pod­cast also fea­tures four mono­logues and an inter­view about Ibn Sīnā. Don’t let this gap in your knowl­edge of major fig­ures in intel­lec­tu­al his­to­ry remain unfilled!

Mark Lin­sen­may­er is the host of the Par­tial­ly Exam­ined Life, Pret­ty Much Pop, and Naked­ly Exam­ined Music pod­casts. He is a writer and musi­cian work­ing out of Madi­son, Wis­con­sin. Read more Open Cul­ture posts about The Par­tial­ly Exam­ined Life.

Image by Solomon Grundy.

Leonardo da Vinci’s Notebooks Get Digitized: Where to Read the Renaissance Man’s Manuscripts Online

From the hand of Leonar­do da Vin­ci came the Mona Lisa and The Last Sup­per, among oth­er art objects of intense rev­er­ence and even wor­ship. But to under­stand the mind of Leonar­do da Vin­ci, one must immerse one­self in his note­books. Total­ing some 13,000 pages of notes and draw­ings, they record some­thing of every aspect of the Renais­sance man’s intel­lec­tu­al and dai­ly life: stud­ies for art­works, designs for ele­gant build­ings and fan­tas­ti­cal machines, obser­va­tions of the world around him, lists of his gro­ceries and his debtors. Intend­ing their even­tu­al pub­li­ca­tion, Leonar­do left his note­books to his pupil Francesco Melzi, by the time of whose own death half a cen­tu­ry lat­er lit­tle had been done with them.

Absent a prop­er stew­ard, Leonar­do’s note­books scat­tered across the world. Six cen­turies lat­er, their sur­viv­ing pages con­sti­tute a series of codices in the pos­ses­sion of such enti­ties as the Bib­liote­ca Ambrosiana, the British Muse­um, the Insti­tut de France, and Bill Gates.

In recent years, they and their col­lab­o­rat­ing orga­ni­za­tions have made efforts to open Leonar­do’s note­books to the world, dig­i­tiz­ing them, trans­lat­ing them, and orga­niz­ing them for con­ve­nient brows­ing on the web. Here on Open Cul­ture, we’ve pre­vi­ous­ly fea­tured the Codex Arun­del as made avail­able to the pub­lic by the British Library, Codex Atlanti­cus by the Visu­al Agency, and the three-part Codex Forster by the Vic­to­ria & Albert Muse­um.

Oth­er col­lec­tions of Leonar­do’s note­books made avail­able to view online include the Madrid Codices at the Bib­liote­ca Nacional de España, the Codex Trivulzianus at the Archi­vo Stori­co Civi­co e Bib­liote­ca Trivulziana, and the Codex on the Flight of Birds at the Smith­son­ian Nation­al Air and Space Muse­um. (Pub­lished as a stand­alone book, his Trea­tise on Paint­ing is avail­able to down­load at Project Guten­berg.) Even so, many of the pages Leonar­do wrote haven’t yet made it to the inter­net, and even when they do, gen­er­a­tions of inter­pre­tive work — well beyond revers­ing his “mir­ror writ­ing” — will sure­ly remain. Much as human­i­ty is only now putting some of his inven­tions to the test, the full pub­li­ca­tion of his note­books remains a work in progress. Leonar­do him­self would sure­ly under­stand: after all, one can’t cul­ti­vate a mind like his with­out patience.

Relat­ed Con­tent:

The Ele­gant Math­e­mat­ics of Vit­ru­vian Man, Leonar­do da Vinci’s Most Famous Draw­ing: An Ani­mat­ed Intro­duc­tion

Down­load the Sub­lime Anato­my Draw­ings of Leonar­do da Vin­ci: Avail­able Online, or in a Great iPad App

Leonar­do da Vinci’s Bizarre Car­i­ca­tures & Mon­ster Draw­ings

Leonar­do da Vinci’s Hand­writ­ten Resume (1482)

Leonar­do Da Vinci’s To Do List (Cir­ca 1490) Is Much Cool­er Than Yours

Why Did Leonar­do da Vin­ci Write Back­wards? A Look Into the Ulti­mate Renais­sance Man’s “Mir­ror Writ­ing”

Based in Seoul, Col­in Mar­shall writes and broad­casts on cities, lan­guage, and cul­ture. His projects include the Sub­stack newslet­ter Books on Cities, the book The State­less City: a Walk through 21st-Cen­tu­ry Los Ange­les and the video series The City in Cin­e­ma. Fol­low him on Twit­ter at @colinmarshall or on Face­book.

Pink Floyd’s David Gilmour Composes a Soundtrack to Arthur C. Clarke’s Documentary Fractals: The Colors of Infinity

An observ­er once called the Man­del­brot Set “The Thumbprint of God,” the sim­ple equa­tion that led to the dis­cov­ery of frac­tal geog­ra­phy, chaos the­o­ry, and why games like No Man’s Sky even exist. In 1994, Arthur C. Clarke, writer of both sci­ence fic­tion and sci­ence fact, nar­rat­ed a one-hour doc­u­men­tary on the new math­e­mat­ics, called Frac­tals: The Col­ors of Infin­i­ty. If that sounds famil­iar, dear read­er, it’s because we’ve told you about it long ago. But it’s worth revis­it­ing, and it’s worth men­tion­ing that the sound­track was cre­at­ed by Pink Floyd’s David Gilmour.

To be hon­est, at first I wasn’t real­ly hear­ing that Floyd vibe, just some pleas­ant synth-strings you could find on any num­ber of doc­u­men­taries. But then Clarke explains the impli­ca­tion of the Man­del­brot equa­tion, end­ing it with “This real­ly is infin­i­ty.” And then Boom, the acid hit.

Or rather, the rain­bow com­put­er graph­ics of the end­less zoom hit, and it was unmis­tak­ably Gilmour—cue up 5:19 and be care­ful with that frac­tal, Eugene. This hap­pens again at 14:30, 25:12, 31:07, 35:46, 38:22, 43:22, 44:51, and 50:06 for those with an itchy scrub­bing fin­ger. But stick around for the whole doc, as the his­to­ry of how we got to the equa­tion, its prece­dents in nature and art, and the impli­ca­tions only hint­ed at in the pro­gram, all make for inter­est­ing view­ing.

The music will remind you in places of “Shine On Your Crazy Dia­mond”, “Obscured by Clouds,” and “On the Run.” When a DVD was released years lat­er, a spe­cial fea­ture iso­lat­ed just Gilmour’s music and the frac­tal ani­ma­tion.

Gilmour has con­tributed sound­track work to oth­er pro­grams. He has an uncred­it­ed per­for­mance on Guy Pratt’s sound­track from 1995’s Hack­ers; inci­den­tal music for 1992’s Ruby Takes a Trip with Ruby Wax; and a 1993 doc­u­men­tary on the arts and drug use called The Art of Trip­ping.

There are no offi­cial releas­es of this sound­track work, but one user has put up 16 min­utes of the Colours of Infin­i­ty music over at Sound­Cloud.

 

Relat­ed Con­tent:

David Gilmour, David Cros­by & Gra­ham Nash Per­form the Pink Floyd Clas­sic, “Shine on You Crazy Dia­mond” (2006)

Watch David Gilmour Play the Songs of Syd Bar­rett, with the Help of David Bowie & Richard Wright

Arthur C. Clarke Pre­dicts the Future in 1964 … And Kind of Nails It

Ted Mills is a free­lance writer on the arts who cur­rent­ly hosts the Notes from the Shed pod­cast and is the pro­duc­er of KCR­W’s Curi­ous Coast. You can also fol­low him on Twit­ter at @tedmills, and/or watch his films here.

The Utopian, Socialist Designs of Soviet Cities

Mod­ernist archi­tec­ture trans­formed the mod­ern city in the 20th cen­tu­ry, for good and ill. Nowhere is this trans­for­ma­tion more evi­dent than the for­mer Sovi­et Union and its for­mer republics. There, we find truth in the west­ern stereo­types of the Sovi­et city as cold, face­less, and soul-crush­ing­ly non­de­script — so much so that the plot of a 1975 Russ­ian TV film called The Irony of Fate, or Enjoy Your Bath!, hinges on a man drunk­en­ly trav­el­ing to Leningrad by mis­take and falling asleep in a stranger’s apart­ment, think­ing it’s his own place in Moscow. Rus­sians found the joke so relat­able, they began a tra­di­tion of watch­ing the film each year on Christ­mas, as the City Beau­ti­ful above video on Sovi­et urban archi­tec­ture points out.

Once it had elim­i­nat­ed pri­vate prop­er­ty, the exper­i­ment of the Sovi­et Union began with good inten­tions, archi­tec­tural­ly-speak­ing. Con­struc­tivism, the first form of dis­tinct­ly Sovi­et archi­tec­ture, was devel­oped first as an art move­ment by Vladimir Tatlin and Alexan­der Rod­chenko. Con­struc­tivists sought to bal­ance the nation’s need to build tons of new hous­ing under harsh eco­nom­ic con­di­tions with “ambi­tion for using the built envi­ron­ment to engi­neer soci­etal changes and instill the avant-garde in every­day life,” points out the Design­ing Build­ings Wiki. Draw­ing from Bauhaus and Futur­ism, the move­ment only last­ed into the 1930s. Many of its finest designs went unre­al­ized, but it left a sig­nif­i­cant mark on sub­se­quent archi­tec­tur­al move­ments like Bru­tal­ism.

The syn­the­sis of beau­ty and util­i­ty would fall apart, how­ev­er, under the mas­sive col­lec­tiviz­ing dri­ves of Stal­in. When his reign end­ed, pub­lic hous­ing blocks known as “Krushchy­ovkas” sprang up, named after the pre­mier “who ini­ti­at­ed their mass pro­duc­tion in the late 1950s,” writes Mark Byrnes at Bloomberg City­Lab. This was “a dis­tinct­ly banal archi­tec­tur­al type” built quick­ly and cheap­ly when Moscow “had twice the pop­u­la­tion its hous­ing stock could accom­mo­date. Five-sto­ry Krush­choyvkas popped up in new­ly planned microdis­tricts.” These, as you’ll see in the explain­er video, could be added on to exist­ing cities indef­i­nite­ly for max­i­mal urban sprawl “in hopes of alle­vi­at­ing the severe hous­ing cri­sis exac­er­bat­ed under Joseph Stal­in.”

As the pop­u­lar­i­ty of The Irony of Fate demon­strates, Krush­choyvkas intro­duced seri­ous prob­lems of their own, includ­ing their grim­ly com­ic same­ness. The film begins with an ani­mat­ed his­to­ry les­son on Sovi­et urban plan­ning. “The urban design was not flex­i­ble,” author Philipp Meuser tells Byrnes. “This was the first cri­tique of them dat­ing back to the ear­ly ‘60s.” Lat­er ver­sions built under Brezh­nev and called “Brezh­nevkis” intro­duced dif­fer­ent shapes and sizes to break up the monot­o­ny. All of the hous­ing blocks were built to last 20 to 25 years and were not well-main­tained, if they were main­tained at all. The ear­li­est began dete­ri­o­rat­ing in the ‘70s.

At their height, how­ev­er, Krush­choyvkas “were pop­u­lar because it was rev­o­lu­tion­ary for hous­ing pol­i­tics.” One U.S. offi­cial put it in 1967: “What the Rus­sians have done is to devel­op the only tech­nol­o­gy in the world to pro­duce accept­able, low-cost hous­ing on a large scale.” Cities around the world fol­lowed suit in build­ings like the Japan­ese danchi, for exam­ple, and the infa­mous­ly awful Amer­i­can pub­lic hous­ing projects of the 60s and 70s, built along sim­i­lar lines as the Krushchy­ovkas and the mis­guid­ed urban design the­o­ries of Swiss archi­tect Le Cor­busier, anoth­er mod­ernist who, like the Con­struc­tivists, reimag­ined city space accord­ing to a mod­el of mass pro­duc­tion.

The orig­i­nal Con­struc­tivist man­i­festo, pub­lished in 1923, promised art and build­ing “of no dis­cernible ‘style’ but sim­ply a prod­uct of an indus­tri­al order like a car, an aero­plane and such like.” The real­i­ty of Con­struc­tivist designs — like the designs of cars and aero­planes — involved a great deal of imag­i­na­tion and cre­ativ­i­ty. But the archi­tec­tur­al lega­cy of what Con­struc­tivists tout­ed as “tech­ni­cal mas­tery and orga­ni­za­tion of mate­ri­als” — under the mas­sive­ly cen­tral­ized bureau­cra­cy of the ful­ly real­ized one-par­ty Com­mu­nist state — cre­at­ed some­thing entire­ly dif­fer­ent than the ide­al­is­tic avant-gardists had once intend­ed for the mod­ern city.

Relat­ed Con­tent: 

Every­thing You Need to Know About Mod­ern Russ­ian Art in 25 Min­utes: A Visu­al Intro­duc­tion to Futur­ism, Social­ist Real­ism & More

When Sovi­et Artists Turned Tex­tiles (Scarves, Table­cloths & Cur­tains) into Beau­ti­ful Pro­pa­gan­da in the 1920s & 1930s

The Glo­ri­ous Poster Art of the Sovi­et Space Pro­gram in Its Gold­en Age (1958–1963)

Josh Jones is a writer and musi­cian based in Durham, NC. Fol­low him at @jdmagness

A 5‑Hour Walking Tour of Paris and Its Famous Streets, Monuments & Parks

“We’ll always have Paris,” Bog­a­rt tells Bergman in the final scene of Casablan­ca, a line and film insep­a­ra­ble from the grand mythol­o­gy of Paris. The city still inspires non-Parisians to pur­chase Belle Epoque poster art by the shipload and binge Net­flix series in which Paris looks like a “city where the clouds part, your brain clears, and your soul finds mean­ing,” Alex Abad-San­tos writes at Vox. It’s also a place in such media where one can seem to find “suc­cess with­out much sac­ri­fice.”

Paris was the city where Hem­ing­way felt “free… to walk any­where,” he wrote in A Move­able Feast; where James Bald­win wrote in his 1961 essay “New Lost Gen­er­a­tion” of “the days when we walked through Les Halles singing, lov­ing every inch of France and lov­ing each oth­er… the nights spent smok­ing hashish in the Arab cafes… the morn­ing which found us telling dirty sto­ries, true sto­ries, sad and earnest sto­ries, in gray workingman’s cafes.”

The image of Paris has not always been so full of romance and escapism, espe­cial­ly for Parisians like Charles Baude­laire. “For the first time Paris becomes the sub­ject of lyric poet­ry” in Baude­laire, wrote Wal­ter Ben­jamin in The Arcades Project, a major, unfin­ished work on Paris in the 19th cen­tu­ry. Like the expats, Baudelaire’s imag­i­na­tion strolled through the city, freed from respon­si­bil­i­ty. But “the Paris of his poems is a sunken city, and more sub­ma­rine than sub­ter­ranean.”

The Paris of rev­o­lu­tion­ary fer­vor, com­munes, bar­ri­cades, and cat­a­combs… of Rim­baud, Coco Chanel, the Sit­u­a­tion­ists…. There are too many ver­sions of the city of lights; we can­not have them all. For the past year, we have not been able to see any part of it but from afar. Thanks to the mag­ic of YouTube, how­ev­er, we can walk the city for hours — or watch some­one else do it, in any case. The five-hour walk­ing tour at the top may skip the places a mod­ern-day Baude­laire would want us to see, but it does include “the most famous streets, mon­u­ments and parks,” notes the descrip­tion,

You’ll also find here short­er video walk­ing tours of Mont­martre, the Eif­fel Tow­er, and Lux­em­bourg Gar­dens, where Hem­ing­way would often meet Gertrude Stein and her dog, and where he found him­self “learn­ing very much “ from Cézanne about how to move beyond sim­ply “writ­ing sim­ple true sen­tences.” We are unlike­ly to have these kinds of expe­ri­ences on our video walk­ing tours. But we can get a taste of what it’s like to briskly cruise Parisian streets in the 21st cen­tu­ry, an expe­ri­ence increas­ing­ly like­ly to become a vir­tu­al one for future writ­ers, poets, and expats and tourists of all kinds.

Relat­ed Con­tent: 

Take a Vir­tu­al Tour of the Paris Cat­a­combs

Take an Aer­i­al Tour of Medieval Paris

Down­load 200+ Belle Époque Art Posters: An Archive of Mas­ter­pieces from the “Gold­en Age of the Poster” (1880–1918)

Josh Jones is a writer and musi­cian based in Durham, NC. Fol­low him at @jdmagness

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