Watch Joni Mitchell’s Classic Performances of “Both Sides Now” & “The Circle Game” (1968)

Joni Mitchell turns 70 today. A child of rur­al west­ern Cana­da, Mitchell endured a series of ear­ly hard­ships that might have crushed a more timid soul — polio, teen preg­nan­cy, an unhap­py mar­riage — but she always man­aged to fol­low her muse.

Mitchell made a life­long habit of guard­ing her artis­tic free­dom and turn­ing adver­si­ty into advan­tage. When a child­hood piano teacher slapped her on the wrist with a ruler for the offense of play­ing by ear, Mitchell decid­ed she did­n’t want any more for­mal music edu­ca­tion. When she found it dif­fi­cult to form gui­tar chords with her polio-weak­ened left hand, she learned to explore alter­na­tive, open-chord tun­ings that have giv­en her music an extra dimen­sion of rich­ness and vari­a­tion.

As a folk singer in the 1960s, Mitchell man­aged to ful­fill both sides of the Bob Dylan/Joan Baez dichoto­my: In one per­son she was both the song­writer of genius and the woman with the gold­en voice. And like Dylan, Mitchell did­n’t remain a folk singer for long. “I looked like a folk singer,” she once said, “even though the moment I began to write, my music was not folk music. It was some­thing else that had ele­ments of roman­tic clas­si­cism to it.” She went on to explore jazz, col­lab­o­rat­ing with Charles Min­gus, Jaco Pas­to­rius, Wayne Short­er, Her­bie Han­cock and oth­ers. “Impos­si­ble to clas­si­fy,” says her biog­ra­phy at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, “Mitchell has dogged­ly pur­sued avenues of self-expres­sion, heed­less of com­mer­cial out­comes.”

As a musi­cian, Mitchell is most­ly retired now. She con­tin­ues to paint and write poet­ry. To cel­e­brate today’s mile­stone we bring you a pair of great per­for­mances from her younger years. In the clip above, from the Jan­u­ary 21, 1968 episode of the CBC’s The Way it Is, a 25-year-old Mitchell plays her clas­sic ear­ly songs “Both Sides Now” and “The Cir­cle Game.” Even after 45 years, the songs can send a shiv­er down your spine. And below, from the 1970 Isle of Wight Fes­ti­val, Mitchel­l’s evo­lu­tion as a writer and per­former are evi­dent in the lilt­ing, melod­i­cal­ly inven­tive “Big Yel­low Taxi.” In a pre­vi­ous post, we have also high­light­ed Mitchell play­ing a 30-minute set on British TV in 1970.

Relat­ed Con­tent:

The Music, Art, and Life of Joni Mitchell Pre­sent­ed in a Superb 2003 Doc­u­men­tary

Joni Mitchell: Singer, Song­writer, Artist, Smok­ing Grand­ma

James Tay­lor Per­forms Live in 1970, Thanks to a Lit­tle Help from His Friends, The Bea­t­les

Dick Cavett’s Epic Wood­stock Fes­ti­val Show (August, 1969)

Hear Vintage Episodes of Buck Rogers, the Sci-Fi Radio Show That First Aired in 1932

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(echo) Buck… Rogers… in… the… 25th… Cen­tu­ry!

On this day in 1932, the Buck Rogers in the 25th Cen­tu­ry radio pro­gram hit the air­waves. Fol­low­ing the suc­cess of the char­ac­ter in the com­ic strip for­mat, it was nat­ur­al to adapt Rogers for the nation’s lat­est craze: radio.

Few fic­tion­al char­ac­ters have had such a pro­found and pro­longed impact on Amer­i­can cul­ture as Buck Rogers. He first appeared in Amaz­ing Sto­ries mag­a­zine as Antho­ny Rogers, and then in Philip Fran­cis Nowlan’s novel­la Armaged­don 2419 A. D. and its sequel The Air­lords of Han. The sto­ry caught the atten­tion of Nation­al News­pa­per Syndicate’s John F. Dille, who con­tract­ed Nowl­an to adapt the char­ac­ter into a com­ic strip, chang­ing “Antho­ny” to “Buck.”

In 1932, the radio pro­gram pre­miered, mak­ing it the first sci­ence fic­tion pro­gram on radio. Ini­tial­ly broad­cast­ed as a fif­teen-minute show on CBS on a Mon­day through Thurs­day sched­ule, the show stayed on the air for the next fif­teen years with vary­ing sched­ules.

Now, thanks to Archive.org, you can trav­el back to 1932 and fol­low the adven­tures of “Buck and Wilma and all their fas­ci­nat­ing friends and mys­te­ri­ous ene­mies in the super-sci­en­tif­ic 25th cen­tu­ry” (as stat­ed in the show’s intro­duc­tion).

Buck Rogers is large­ly cred­it­ed with bring­ing into pop­u­lar cul­ture the con­cept of space explo­ration, not to men­tion ray guns and robots. Ray Brad­bury may have stat­ed it best in his intro­duc­tion to The Col­lect­ed Works of Buck Rogers in the 25th Cen­tu­ry, when dis­cussing its com­ic strip form:

There you are, wait­ing, trem­bling, in fevers; so full of life that if you were a vol­cano you’d come up in someone’s corn­field and bury the silo. There you are, as after­noon slides toward warm dusk, eyes shut, lis­ten­ing…

And there’s the sound, whistling through the air, crash­ing along the shin­gles, slid­ing down the roof, falling to the porch. You fling the door wide. You bend to touch that incred­i­ble news­pa­per with a hot hand. Buck Rogers had just been born. And you a sin­gle wise small boy, are there alone to wel­come him to a world he will help change for­ev­er.

Relat­ed Con­tent:

Revis­it Futuria Fan­ta­sia: The Sci­ence Fic­tion Fanzine Ray Brad­bury Pub­lished as a Teenag­er

Isaac Asimov’s Sci­ence Fic­tion Clas­sic, The Foun­da­tion Tril­o­gy, Dra­ma­tized for Radio (1973)

Free: Lis­ten to 298 Episodes of the Vin­tage Crime Radio Series, Drag­net

Revis­it Orson Welles’ Icon­ic ‘War of the Worlds’ Broad­cast That Aired 75 Years Ago Today

The Nazi’s Philistine Grudge Against Abstract Art and The “Degenerate Art Exhibition” of 1937

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Has any polit­i­cal par­ty in West­ern his­to­ry had as vexed a rela­tion­ship with art as the Ger­man Nation­al Social­ists? We’ve long known, of course, that their uses of and opin­ions on art con­sti­tut­ed the least of the Nazi par­ty’s prob­lems. Still, the artis­tic pro­cliv­i­ties of Hitler and com­pa­ny com­pel us, per­haps because they seem to promise a win­dow into the mind­set that result­ed in such ulti­mate inhu­man­i­ty. We can learn about the Nazis from the art they liked, but we can learn just as much (or more) from the art they dis­liked — or even that which they sup­pressed out­right.

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Cur­rent events have brought these sub­jects back to mind; this week, accord­ing to The New York Times, “Ger­man author­i­ties described how they dis­cov­ered 1,400 or so works dur­ing a rou­tine tax inves­ti­ga­tion, includ­ing ones by Matisse, Cha­gall, Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, Picas­so and a host of oth­er mas­ters,” most or all pre­vi­ous­ly unknown or pre­sumed lost amid all the flight from Nazi Ger­many. Hitler him­self, more a fan of racial­ly charged Utopi­an real­ism, would­n’t have approved of most of these new­ly redis­cov­ered paint­ings and draw­ings.

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In fact, he may well have thrown them into 1937’s Degen­er­ate Art Exhi­bi­tion. Four years after it came to pow­er,” writes the BBC’s Lucy Burns, “the Nazi par­ty put on two art exhi­bi­tions in Munich. The Great Ger­man Art Exhi­bi­tion [the Große Deutsche Kun­stausstel­lung] was designed to show works that Hitler approved of — depict­ing stat­uesque blonde nudes along with ide­alised sol­diers and land­scapes. The sec­ond exhi­bi­tion, just down the road, showed the oth­er side of Ger­man art — mod­ern, abstract, non-rep­re­sen­ta­tion­al — or as the Nazis saw it, ‘degen­er­ate.’ ” This Degen­er­ate Art Exhi­bi­tion (Die Ausstel­lung “Entartete Kun­st”), the much more pop­u­lar of the two, fea­tured Paul Klee, Oskar Kokosch­ka, Wass­i­ly Kandin­sky, Max Beck­mann, Emil Nolde and George Grosz. There the Nazis quar­an­tined these con­fis­cat­ed abstract, expres­sion­is­tic, and often Jew­ish works of art, those that, accord­ing to the Führer, “insult Ger­man feel­ing, or destroy or con­fuse nat­ur­al form or sim­ply reveal an absence of ade­quate man­u­al and artis­tic skill” and “can­not be under­stood in them­selves but need some pre­ten­tious instruc­tion book to jus­ti­fy their exis­tence.” And if that sounds rigid, you should see how that Nazis dealt with jazz.

Note: For more on this sub­ject, you can watch the 1993 doc­u­men­tary Degen­er­ate Art.

Relat­ed Con­tent:

How the CIA Secret­ly Fund­ed Abstract Expres­sion­ism Dur­ing the Cold War

The Nazis’ 10 Con­trol-Freak Rules for Jazz Per­form­ers: A Strange List from World War II

Joseph Stal­in, a Life­long Edi­tor, Wield­ed a Big, Blue, Dan­ger­ous Pen­cil

Col­in Mar­shall hosts and pro­duces Note­book on Cities and Cul­ture and writes essays on lit­er­a­ture, film, cities, Asia, and aes­thet­ics. He’s at work on a book about Los Ange­lesA Los Ange­les Primer. Fol­low him on Twit­ter at @colinmarshall.

Watch a 44-Minute Supercut of Every Woody Allen Stammer, From Every Woody Allen Film

In dai­ly life, Woody Allen is far from the del­i­cate bun­dle of cere­bral nerves he so often por­trays in his films. He was a suc­cess­ful track run­ner in high school, and, accord­ing to Eric Lax’s biog­ra­phy, trained for sev­er­al months to par­tic­i­pate in the Gold­en Gloves. But, as with so many young pugilists, parental con­cern got in the way—his par­ents refused to sign the con­sent form to let him box.

On screen, how­ev­er, Woody Allen remains Hollywood’s reign­ing neb­bish. Jesse Eisen­berg once seemed poised to take the title, but while he is some­times ner­vous and intro­vert­ed, his per­for­mance in The Social Net­work con­firmed that he can har­ness the flash­es of inten­si­ty seen in teenage films like The Squid and The Whale and Adven­ture­land.  Michael Cera, mean­while, the sec­ond most promi­nent of the con­tenders, is a whol­ly dif­fer­ent actor to Allen—while Allen is inse­cure and all-too-vol­u­ble, Cera is sim­ply all-too-nice.

Allen’s unabashed delight in his inse­cu­ri­ties and his hypochon­dri­ac con­cern with neu­roses is the plat­form for much of his humor. He has honed the persona’s man­ner­isms to per­fec­tion, and the clip above pro­vides a mas­ter class in just one: the Allen stam­mer. By the end of this stag­ger­ing­ly impres­sive 44-minute super­cut, con­tain­ing every sin­gle one of Allen’s ver­bal stum­bles and foot-drags from all of his movies, you should have laughed, cried, and fall­en into a stu­por. Please enjoy respon­si­bly.

via Huff­in­g­ton Post

Ilia Blin­d­er­man is a Mon­tre­al-based cul­ture writer. Fol­low him at @iliablinderman

Relat­ed Con­tent:

Woody Allen Box­es a Kan­ga­roo, 1966

Woody Allen Lists the Great­est Films of All Time: Includes Clas­sics by Bergman, Truf­faut & Felli­ni

Watch an Exu­ber­ant, Young Woody Allen Do Live Stand Up on British TV (1965)

Take a Virtual Tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre

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Last week, we fea­tured a Prize-Win­ning Ani­ma­tion of 17th Cen­tu­ry Lon­don. In many ways, it could be paired with these short vir­tu­al tours of the Globe The­atre. Built in 1599 by Shake­speare’s play­ing com­pa­ny, the Lord Cham­ber­lain’s Men, the orig­i­nal the­atre host­ed some of the Bard’s great­est plays until it burned down 14 years lat­er. In 1613, dur­ing a per­for­mance of Hen­ry VIII, a stage can­non ignit­ed the thatched roof and the the­atre burned to the ground in less than two hours. Rebuilt with a tile roof, the the­atre re-opened in 1614, and remained active until England’s Puri­tan admin­is­tra­tion closed all the­atres in 1642. A mod­ern recon­struc­tion of the Globe, named “Shake­speare’s Globe,” was built in 1997, just a few feet away from the orig­i­nal struc­ture. If you want to get a feel for what Shake­speare’s the­atre looked like, then look no fur­ther than this vir­tu­al tour. All you need is this free Quick­time plu­g­in for your brows­er and you can take a 360 tour of the stage, the yard, the mid­dle gallery, and the upper gallery … all with­out leav­ing your seat.

via @matthiasrascher and @faraway67

Relat­ed Con­tent:

What Shake­speare Sound­ed Like to Shake­speare: Recon­struct­ing the Bard’s Orig­i­nal Pro­nun­ci­a­tion

Pink Floyd’s David Gilmour Sings Shakespeare’s Son­net 18

A Sur­vey of Shakespeare’s Plays (Free Course) 

Shakespeare’s Satir­i­cal Son­net 130, As Read By Stephen Fry

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Alberto Martini’s Haunting Illustrations of Dante’s Divine Comedy (1901–1944)

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In 1901, Vit­to­rio Ali­nari, head of Fratel­li Ali­nari, the world’s old­est pho­to­graph­ic firm, decid­ed to pub­lish a new illus­trat­ed edi­tion of Dante’s Divine Com­e­dy. To do so, Ali­nari announced a com­pe­ti­tion for Ital­ian artists: each com­peti­tor had to send illus­tra­tions of at least two can­tos of the epic poem, which would result in one win­ner and a pub­lic exhi­bi­tion of the draw­ings. Among the com­peti­tors were Alber­to Zar­do, Arman­do Spa­di­ni, Ernesto Bel­lan­di, and Alber­to Mar­ti­ni.

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While Mar­ti­ni did not win the com­pe­ti­tion, he, as Vit­to­rio Sgar­bi wrote in his fore­word to Martini’s La Div­ina Com­me­dia, “seemed born to illus­trate the Divine Com­e­dy.” The 1901 con­test was fol­lowed by two more sets of illus­tra­tions between 1922 and 1944, which pro­duced alto­geth­er almost 300 works in a wide range of styles, includ­ing pen­cil and ink to the water­col­or tables paint­ed between 1943 and 1944. While repeat­ed­ly reject­ed pub­li­ca­tion dur­ing his life­time, a com­pre­hen­sive edi­tion of Martini’s La Divinia Com­me­dia is avail­able today.

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With his feel­ing for the grotesque and the macabre, Martini’s work was much more influ­enced by the North­ern Man­ner­ism move­ment than Ital­ian art and is often seen as a pre­cur­sor to Sur­re­al­ism, as Mar­ti­ni was a favorite of André Bre­ton. How­ev­er, while steeped in the sur­re­al­ism of Odilon Redon and Aubrey Beard­s­ley black and white coun­ter­points, Martini’s Divine Com­e­dy is filled with an orig­i­nal sense of fan­ta­sy and beau­ti­ful­ly con­veys Dante’s more abstract imagery. Need­less to say, Martini’s inter­pre­ta­tion was very much in a world apart from the Ital­ian Futur­ist and Meta­phys­i­cal move­ments of the day.

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Ignored by Ital­ian crit­ics most his life, Mar­ti­ni con­tin­ued to pro­duce a large num­ber of illus­tra­tions and paint­ing until his death in 1954. As he wrote in his auto­bi­og­ra­phy, “Only the true great artists do not age, because they are able to inno­vate and invent new forms, new col­ors, gen­uine inven­tions.” Martini’s Divine Com­e­dy is as shock­ing and beau­ti­ful today as it was in the ear­ly twen­ti­eth cen­tu­ry, and is the best exam­ple of Martini’s pro­gres­sion as an artist through­out his career.

For a very dif­fer­ent artis­tic inter­pre­ta­tion of the Divine Com­e­dy, see our posts on edi­tions by Sal­vador Dalí and Gus­tave Doré.

Relat­ed Con­tent:

Physics from Hell: How Dante’s Infer­no Inspired Galileo’s Physics

Gus­tave Doré’s Dra­mat­ic Illus­tra­tions of Dante’s Divine Com­e­dy

Sal­vador Dalí’s 100 Illus­tra­tions of Dante’s The Divine Com­e­dy

1966 Film Explores the Making of Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey (and Our High-Tech Future)

“The fol­low­ing film describes an unusu­al motion pic­ture now being pro­duced in Lon­don for release all over the world start­ing in 1967.” We hear and see this announce­ment, which pre­cedes A Look Behind the Futurethe pro­mo­tion­al doc­u­men­tary above, deliv­ered by a pomade-haired, horn-rimmed mid­dle-aged fel­low. He has much else to say about our need to pre­pare our­selves through edi­fy­ing enter­tain­ment for the “rad­i­cal revi­sions in our total soci­ety” fast ush­ered in by the Space Age. Anoth­er, even more offi­cial-sound­ing announc­er intro­duces this man as “the pub­lish­er of Look mag­a­zine, Mr. Ver­non Myers.” This could hap­pen at no time but the mid-1960s, and Myers could refer to no oth­er “unusu­al motion pic­ture” than Stan­ley Kubrick­’s 2001: A Space Odyssey.

Mod­ern-day exam­i­na­tions of 2001 usu­al­ly cel­e­brate the film’s still-strik­ing artis­tic vision and its influ­ence on so much of the sci­ence fic­tion that fol­lowed. But when this short appeared, not only did the year 2001 lay far in the future, so did the movie itself. Con­tem­po­rary with Kubrick­’s pro­duc­tion, it touts how thor­ough­ly researchers have root­ed the spec­u­la­tive devices of the sto­ry in the thrilling tech­nolo­gies then in real-life devel­op­ment (whether ulti­mate­ly fruit­ful or oth­er­wise), and how the pic­ture thus offers the most accu­rate pre­dic­tion of mankind’s high-tech future yet. It even brings in co-author Arthur C. Clarke him­self to com­ment upon the NASA lunar explo­ration gear under con­struc­tion. The Apol­lo 11 moon land­ing would, of course, come just three years lat­er. A Look Behind the Future reflects the enter­pris­ing if square tech­no­log­i­cal opti­mism of that era, a tone that per­haps has­n’t aged quite as well as the haunt­ing, bot­tom­less­ly ambigu­ous film it pitch­es.

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Related Con­tent:

Stan­ley Kubrick’s List of Top 10 Films (The First and Only List He Ever Cre­at­ed)

Stan­ley Kubrick’s Very First Films: Three Short Doc­u­men­taries

Rare 1960s Audio: Stan­ley Kubrick’s Big Inter­view with The New York­er

Col­in Mar­shall hosts and pro­duces Note­book on Cities and Cul­ture and writes essays on lit­er­a­ture, film, cities, Asia, and aes­thet­ics. He’s at work on a book about Los Ange­lesA Los Ange­les Primer. Fol­low him on Twit­ter at @colinmarshall.

Cook Real Recipes from Ancient Rome: Ostrich Ragoût, Roast Wild Boar, Nut Tarts & More

Mar­cus Gav­ius Api­cius, who lived in the first cen­tu­ry AD, was as fine an embod­i­ment of Rome’s insa­tiable excess as any of his fel­low cit­i­zens. While some men gained infamy for wan­ton cru­el­ty or feats of courage, Api­cius came to be known as Rome’s most prodi­gious glut­ton, with Pliny call­ing him “the most riotous glut­ton and bel­lie-god of his time.” (An alter­na­tive, and equal­ly delec­table trans­la­tion, is the “most glut­to­nous gorg­er of all spend­thrifts.”)

Among Api­cius’ most impres­sive culi­nary exploits was sail­ing to Libya to pick up some craw­fish:

Hear­ing too that [the craw­fish] were very large in Africa, he sailed thith­er, with­out wait­ing a sin­gle day, and suf­fered exceed­ing­ly on his voy­age. But when he came near the place, before he dis­em­barked from the ship, (for his arrival made a great noise among the Africans,) the fish­er­men came along­side in their boats and brought him some very fine craw­fish; and he, when he saw them, asked if they had any fin­er; and when they said that there were none fin­er than those which they brought, he, rec­ol­lect­ing those at Minturnæ, ordered the mas­ter of the ship to sail back the same way into Italy, with­out going near the land.

Some would say that sail­ing all the way to Libya for fish and refus­ing to set foot ashore because you weren’t impressed with some fishermen’s wares might be called petu­lant. They would be wrong. It is gas­tro­nom­i­cal­ly dis­cern­ing. No less, how­ev­er, would be expect­ed of a man who end­ed his life when, as Mar­tial remarks, his purse could no longer sup­port his stom­ach:

Api­cius, you have spent 60 mil­lion [ses­ter­ces] on your stom­ach, and as yet a full 10 mil­lion remained to you. You refused to endure this, as also hunger and thirst, and took poi­son in your final drink. Noth­ing more glut­to­nous was ever done by you, Api­cius.

Only fit­ting, then, that one of Rome’s best known gour­mands became the attrib­uted author of the old­est sur­viv­ing cook­book. Api­cius’ De re coquinar­ia, which emerged between the 4th and 5th cen­turies AD, is a com­pi­la­tion of almost 500 Roman recipes arranged, much like con­tem­po­rary cook­books, by ingre­di­ents. This culi­nary gold­mine, which includes instruc­tions on prepar­ing brains and udders, was inac­ces­si­ble to Eng­lish speak­ers until the advent of Bar­bara Flower and Eliz­a­beth Rosenbaum’s The Roman cook­ery book: A crit­i­cal trans­la­tion of “The art of cook­ing” by Api­cius, for use in the study and kitchen (1958). Here’s a sam­ple from Book 9, From The Sea:

- Mus­sels: liqua­men, chopped leeks, pas­sum, savory, wine. Dilute the mix­ture with water, and boil the mus­sels in it.

- (Sauce) for oys­ters: pep­per, lovage, yolk of egg, vine­gar, liqua­men, oil and wine. If you wish, add hon­ey.

- (Sauce) for all kinds of shell­fish: pep­per, lovage, pars­ley, dried mint, lots of cumin, hon­ey, vine­gar, liqua­men. If you wish, add a bay leaf and foli­um indicum.

Unfor­tu­nate­ly for the aspir­ing Roman chef, nei­ther De re coquinar­ia nor Mmes. Flower and Rosen­baum includ­ed the nec­es­sary quan­ti­ties of the ingre­di­ents. While one may choose to parse the trans­la­tion inde­pen­dent­ly to arrive at the appro­pri­ate mean­ing of “lots of cumin,” there is help for those look­ing for a quick fix.

In 2003, a chef and food his­to­ri­an named Patrick Faas pub­lished Around the Roman Table: Food and Feast­ing in Ancient Rome. While some of the con­tent con­cerns Roman table man­ners, the heart of the book lies in the recipes. Faas pro­vides over 150 recipes, most of which he sources from Flower and Rosenbaum’s trans­la­tion (along­side a few dish­es men­tioned by Pliny and Cato). Eight are freely avail­able on the Uni­ver­si­ty of Chica­go Press web­site, and we’ve pro­vid­ed a few as an amuse-bouche:

Roast Wild Boar

Aper ita con­di­tur: spogiatur, et sic asper­gi­tur ei sal et cuminum fric­tum, et sic manet. Alia die mit­ti­tur in fur­num. Cum coc­tus fuer­it per­fun­du­tur piper tri­tum, condi­men­tum aprunum, mel, liqua­men, caroenum et pas­sum.

Boar is cooked like this: sponge it clean and sprin­kle with salt and roast cumin. Leave to stand. The fol­low­ing day, roast it in the oven. When it is done, scat­ter with ground pep­per and pour on the juice of the boar, hon­ey, liqua­men, caroenum, and pas­sum. (Api­cius, 330)

For this you would need a very large oven, or a very small boar, but the recipe is equal­ly suc­cess­ful with the boar joint­ed. Remove the bris­tles and skin, then scat­ter over it plen­ty of sea salt, crushed pep­per and coarse­ly ground roast­ed cumin. Leave it in the refrig­er­a­tor for 2–3 days, turn­ing it occa­sion­al­ly.

Wild boar can be dry, so wrap it in slices of bacon before you roast it. At the very least wrap it in pork caul. Then put it into the oven at its high­est set­ting and allow it to brown for 10 min­utes. Reduce the oven tem­per­a­ture to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4, and con­tin­ue to roast for 2 hours per kg, bast­ing reg­u­lar­ly.

Mean­while pre­pare the sauce. To make caroenum, reduce 500ml wine to 200ml. Add 2 table­spoons of hon­ey, 100ml pas­sum, or dessert wine, and salt or garum to taste. Take the meat out of the oven and leave it to rest while you fin­ish the sauce. Pour off the fat from the roast­ing tin, then deglaze it with the wine and the hon­ey mix­ture. Pour this into a saucepan, add the roast­ing juices, and fat to taste.

Carve the boar into thin slices at the table, and serve the sweet sauce sep­a­rate­ly.

Ostrich Ragoût

Until the 1980s the ostrich was con­sid­ered as exot­ic as an ele­phant, but since then it has become avail­able in super­mar­kets. Cook­ing a whole ostrich is an enor­mous task, but Api­cius pro­vides a recipe for ostrich:

In struthione elixo: piper, men­tam, cuminum assume, apii semen, dacty­los vel cary­otas, mel, ace­tum, pas­sum, liqua­men, et oleum modice et in cac­cabo facies ut bul­li­at. Amu­lo obligas, et sic partes struthio­n­is in lance per­fundis, ete desu­per piper aspar­gis. Si autem in con­di­tu­ram coquere volueris, ali­cam addis.

For boiled ostrich: pep­per, mint, roast cumin, cel­ery seed, dates or Jeri­cho dates, hon­ey, vine­gar, pas­sum, garum, a lit­tle oil. Put these in the pot and bring to the boil. Bind with amu­lum, pour over the pieces of ostrich in a serv­ing dish and sprin­kle with pep­per. If you wish to cook the ostrich in the sauce, add ali­ca. (Api­cius, 212)

You may pre­fer to roast or fry your ostrich, rather than boil it. Whichev­er method you choose, this sauce goes with it well. For 500g ostrich pieces, fried or boiled, you will need:

2 tea­spoon flour

2 table­spoons olive oil

300ml pas­sum (dessert wine)

1 table­spoon roast cumin seeds

1 tea­spoon cel­ery seeds

3 pit­ted can­died dates

3 table­spoons garum or a 50g tin of anchovies

1 tea­spoon pep­per­corns

2 table­spoons fresh chopped mint

1 tea­spoon hon­ey

3 table­spoons strong vine­gar

Make a roux with the flour and 1 table­spoon of the olive oil, add the pas­sum, and con­tin­ue to stir until the sauce is smooth. Pound togeth­er in the fol­low­ing order: the cumin, cel­ery seeds, dates, garum or anchovies, pep­per­corns, chopped mint, the remain­ing olive oil, the hon­ey, and vine­gar. Add this to the thick­ened wine sauce. Then stir in the ostrich pieces and let them heat through in the sauce.

Nut Tart

Pati­na ver­sa­tilis vice dul­cis: nucle­os pineos, nuces frac­tas et pur­gatas, attor­re­bis eas, teres cum melle, pipere, liquamine, lacte, ovis, mod­i­co mero et oleo, ver­sas in dis­cum.

Try pati­na as dessert: roast pine nuts, peeled and chopped nuts. Add hon­ey, pep­per, garum, milk, eggs, a lit­tle undi­lut­ed wine, and oil. Pour on to a plate. (Api­cius, 136)

400g crushed nuts—almonds, wal­nuts or pis­ta­chios

200g pine nuts

100g hon­ey

100ml dessert wine

4 eggs

100ml full-fat sheep­’s milk

1 tea­spoon salt or garum

pep­per

Pre­heat the oven to 240°C/475°F/Gas 9.

Place the chopped nuts and the whole pine nuts in an oven dish and roast until they have turned gold­en. Reduce the oven tem­per­a­ture to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Mix the hon­ey and the wine in a pan and bring to the boil, then cook until the wine has evap­o­rat­ed. Add the nuts and pine nuts to the hon­ey and leave it to cool. Beat the eggs with the milk, salt or garum and pep­per. Then stir the hon­ey and nut mix­ture into the eggs. Oil an oven dish and pour in the nut mix­ture. Seal the tin with sil­ver foil and place it in roast­ing tin filled about a third deep with water. Bake for about 25 min­utes until the pud­ding is firm. Take it out and when it is cold put it into the fridge to chill. To serve, tip the tart on to a plate and pour over some boiled hon­ey.

Col­umel­la Sal­ad

Col­umel­la’s writ­ings sug­gest that Roman sal­ads were a match for our own in rich­ness and imag­i­na­tion:

Addi­to in mor­tar­i­um sat­ureiam, men­tam, rutam, corian­drum, api­um, por­rum sec­tivum, aut si non erit viri­dem cepam, folia latu­cae, folia eru­cae, thy­mum viri­de, vel nepetam, tum eti­am viri­de puleium, et case­um recen­tem et sal­sum: ea omnia parti­er con­ter­i­to, ace­tique piperati exigu­um, per­mis­ce­to. Hanc mix­tu­ram cum in catil­lo com­po­sur­ris, oleum super­fun­di­to.

Put savory in the mor­tar with mint, rue, corian­der, pars­ley, sliced leek, or, if it is not avail­able, onion, let­tuce and rock­et leaves, green thyme, or cat­mint. Also pen­ny­roy­al and salt­ed fresh cheese. This is all crushed togeth­er. Stir in a lit­tle pep­pered vine­gar. Put this mix­ture on a plate and pour oil over it. (Col­umel­la, Re Rus­ti­ca, XII-lix)

A won­der­ful sal­ad, unusu­al for the lack of salt (per­haps the cheese was salty enough), and that Col­umel­la crush­es the ingre­di­ents in the mor­tar.

100g fresh mint (and/or pen­ny­roy­al)

50g fresh corian­der

50g fresh pars­ley

1 small leek

a sprig of fresh thyme

200g salt­ed fresh cheese

vine­gar

pep­per

olive oil

Fol­low Col­umel­la’s method for this sal­ad using the ingre­di­ents list­ed.

In oth­er sal­ad recipes Col­umel­la adds nuts, which might not be a bad idea with this one.

Apart from let­tuce and rock­et many plants were eat­en raw—watercress, mal­low, sor­rel, goose­foot, purslane, chico­ry, chervil, beet greens, cel­ery, basil and many oth­er herbs.

via Uni­ver­si­ty of Chica­go Press and De Coquinar­ia

Ilia Blin­d­er­man is a Mon­tre­al-based cul­ture writer. Fol­low him at @iliablinderman

Relat­ed Con­tent:

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What Ancient Greek Music Sound­ed Like: Hear a Recon­struc­tion That is ‘100% Accu­rate’

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